How to Wash Your Running Shoes Without Destroying Them
Have you ever looked at your running shoes and thought about all the sweat, dirt, road salt, and mystery smells that have collected there over the weeks, months, and maybe years of use? Did it feel just plain wrong to put them on at some point? If your answer to either of this questions was a “yes,” then washing them makes sense.
Now, I’m going to stop you before you run off to shove your shoes in a washing machine. You can’t wash your running shoes like a hoodie: hot water, lots of soap, toss them in the dryer, call it a day. That’s exactly how shoes get wrecked. (If you’ve already done it, know you’re not alone. Why do you think I know how to do it nowadays? Because I’ve destroyed mine, too.)
That’s why we’re here today; to prevent you from making the same mistakes I did. This guide is the safe, repeatable way to clean running shoes without ungluing soles, crunching the foam, or making them smell even worse.
Written & edited by Pavlína Marek
Why most people ruin their running shoes when they wash them
- Hot water (softens glue, can warp foams)
- Harsh detergent, stain remover, or bleach (breaks down fabrics, strips color, leaves residue)
- Soaking for hours
- Aggressive scrubbing (frays mesh, peels overlays)
- Machine drying or direct heat (destroys glue and cushioning, shrinks insoles)
- Leaving them in direct sun for hours (fades colors and can stiffen materials)
When these mistakes happen, your shoes’ soles start peeling away, midsoles get warped or feel weirdly uneven, foam turns crunchy or stiff, colors fade or look blotchy, odor stays, because residue and dampness are a smell trap, or they get frayed, stretched, or misshapen.
The goal shouldn’t be to make your shoes look brand-new and showroom worthy. The goal should be “clean enough” while protecting the stuff that makes a running shoe a running shoe: glue, cushioning, shape, and breathability.
Before you wash: what’s your shoe made of?
Different materials need different levels of gentleness.
- Mesh or knit: most common, usually easiest to clean, dries faster
- Waterproof membranes (Gore-Tex, etc.): needs gentle cleaning, no harsh chemicals, careful drying
Midsole (the cushion) Is usually an EVA or PEBA blend. These can degrade with heat and sometimes react badly to strong cleaners.
Outer sole is made of rubber and more durable, you can scrub this harder than the rest of the shoe.
Insoles and laces are often the main source of stink.
If your brand has care instructions (tag, box, website), follow those first. Brands sometimes use special glues or coatings, and their guidance overrides generic tips.
What you’ll need
- Soft brush (old toothbrush works)
- Microfiber cloth or soft rag
- A large bowl or small bucket
- Mild liquid detergent, a dedicated shoe cleaner, or dish soap (dish soap is my go-to)
- Towel
- Shoe trees or paper (newspaper or paper towels)
- Mesh laundry bag (only if you machine wash, which is not recommended)
- Baking soda (odor control)
- White vinegar (for salt stains and deodorizing, very diluted)
What to avoid:
- Bleach
- Strong solvents
- Harsh stain removers
- Wire brushes
- High-pressure water jets
Detergent rule of thumb: use less than you think and dilute it. Too much soap leaves residue, and residue attracts dirt and holds odors.
Hand-Wash: the safest way to wash running shoes
Hand washing works for almost every normal running shoe and has the lowest risk of accidentally destroying your shoes. It might sound like too much work—but imagine having to spend $150 on a new pair because you chucked yours in the washing machine at 140°F!
Step 1: Remove laces and insoles
Take them out and set them aside. You’ll clean them separately.
Then shake out grit and tap the soles together (do this outside) to knock loose dirt off.
Step 2: Dry brush first
Before any water touches the shoe, brush off dirt. You can use a little more pressure on the soles. Go lighter on toe box and lace area.
This step will make the rest of your work much easier because it stops you from turning dust into mud and grinding it into the fabric.
Step 3: Mix a gentle cleaning solution
In a bowl/bucket, mix cold to lukewarm water and a small amount of mild liquid detergent or dish soap (use just a few drops, don’t try to squeeze the life out of the bottle of detergent). You want lightly soapy water, not a bubble bath.
Step 4: Spot clean the upper parts of the shoe
Dip the brush in the solution, tap off excess, then lightly scrub the shoe in small circles. Focus on dirty zones, don’t scrub the entire shoe like you’re sanding a deck. On mesh, use a soft touch or avoid brushes at all and use a piece of cloth instead. On knit, you should stick to a piece of cloth.
If you hit a stubborn spot, do a second pass a little later rather than scrubbing it within an inch of its life.
Here’s more detailed guidance on how to clean your mesh shoes.
Step 5: Scrub the soles
This is where you can put in more effort and pressure or use a harsher brush. Scrub the foam sidewalls of the midsole and the outsole grooves to free trapped dirt and tiny rocks. A toothbrush works great for tread.
Step 6: Rinse correctly
However, because this fills the shoe with lots of water, it’ll take longer to dry, which means bigger likelihood of funky smells taking up residence in the shoe.
Instead, wipe the shoe with a clean damp cloth repeatedly to lift soap and dirt. Rinse the cloth often. Try to minimize water entering the shoe and soaking the midsole layers.
Less water inside the shoe means faster drying and less chance of funky smells.
Step 7: Deodorize (optional)
If your shoes smell like a gym bag that’s seen things, there are two things you can do. (I like to use baking soda).
Baking soda
- Sprinkle a small amount inside the dry shoe
- Leave overnight
- Dump it out the next day
Baking soda got the smell of dog poo out of bedsheets for me. It’s a true hero. It also doesn’t leave its own smell behind.
Diluted vinegar wipe
- Mix 1 part white vinegar to 3–4 parts water
- Lightly wipe the inside with a cloth (do not soak)
- Let it fully dry
Vinegar is great at neutralizing smells but you might notice some lingering vinegar smell for a few days afterwards.
Finish by wiping off any remaining residue, and check seams and glue lines. Also: don’t twist or wring the shoe. That’s how you mess up the shape and stress the bonding.
Can you put running shoes in the washing machine? (When it’s OK—and how to do it safely)
Sometimes machine washing is fine, but it depends on the shoe. That being said, just don’t risk it. If you do, that’s on you. Here’s a quick how-to for those of you with too much courage.
When machine washing is usually acceptable
- Sturdy mesh uppers
- No leather or suede
- No fragile overlays that are already peeling
- The shoe is not already coming unglued
When to avoid machine washing
- Waterproof membranes (Gore-Tex type liners)
- Shoes that are heavily worn and the glue is already tired
- Anything with embedded electronics (rare, but it exists)
- If you’re worried about a pricey plated racer, don’t gamble. Hand wash.
“Safe” machine settings
If you’re set on chucking your shoes in the washing machine, use these settings. Cold water, delicate/gentle cycle, and low spin. Use a small amount of mild detergent, no bleach, and no fabric softener.
Prep your shoes
Remove laces and insoles and put shoes in a mesh laundry bag. Add a couple towels to the load to reduce banging and help balance.
Post-wash
After the cycle is done, remove shoes immediately. Reshape them and towel blot. Air dry only.
Remember one thing: a washing machine can be survivable, a dryer is not.
How to wash laces and insoles (the part that usually smells)
Most “my shoes still stink” stories are really “my insoles still stink.” All it takes is to forget taking them out of the shoe once when they’re slightly damp and the smells return tenfold.
Laces
Your laces don’t need any special care. Soak in warm-ish (not hot) soapy water for 15–30 minutes. Lightly scrub if needed. Rinse well and air dry.
Insoles
Do not machine wash them. They can warp and hold moisture forever.
Wipe your soles with a cloth dipped in mild soapy water, then wipe again with a clean damp cloth to remove soap. Press firmly with a towel to remove as much moisture as possible. Leave them to dry off a bit, then sprinkle baking soda and leave overnight. Make sure they are fully dry before putting them back. Even the smallest amount of moisture will being the stink back.
If odor keeps coming back, consider replacing the insoles. It’s usually a cheap fix compared to endlessly re-washing a pair of shoes.
Stain and odor “special cases”
Don’t over-clean the whole shoe. You usually don’t need to deep-wash everything. Spot solutions save time and shoe life.
Mud
- Let it dry completely
- Brush it off
- Spot clean what remains
Salt stains (winter)
- Wipe with diluted vinegar (1:3 or 1:4 vinegar to water)
- Repeat if needed
- Then wipe with a clean damp cloth
Grease or oil
- Put a tiny amount of dish soap on the spot
- Blot and lightly scrub, don’t shred the fabric
- Rinse by wiping with a damp cloth
Persistent odor
- Baking soda overnight
- Activated charcoal sachets inside the shoe
- Focus on full drying and rotation
Yellowing or oxidation
Manage expectations. Some whitening and yellowing is just age and material chemistry.
Skip strong whiteners. Gentle cleaning helps, but you’re not reversing time.
Final Words
Whether your running shoes are blindingly white or grey and muddy, the most important part is that you like running in them. Don’t stress too much about keeping your shoes pristine like they’d just come out of the box; the dirt you can’t wash off is a testament to a shoe’s life well lived!